Route: Leith, Edinburgh to Perth via Milnathort, Fife
Mileage: 49 miles; 293 miles total; 1, 207 to go
Weather: Blue sky with broken cloud, light breeze
Last night I weeded a few unnecessary possessions to lighten the pannier load and left them to be sent down to Silsden. The bags still felt heavy. What's really important on a trip like this is to know exactly which of the two bags you've packed things. If I haven't anything better to tell you, I can always tell you what they contain!
I was up early and ready by 8.15 am by which time John Norman came over to see me off from The Skein. The majority of house members were enjoying a lie in, but Alison was up, and made me a cup of tea.
The cycle route to Queensferry from the Barnton Roundabout avoids the busy approach road to the Forth Road Bridge, and passes Dalmeny and where the army HQ used to be and perhaps still are. In my teens I had attended the beating of the retreat here one year with a girlfriend whose father was in the army. I recall the start of the programme was delayed for some time until a long black car with outriders pulled up and a tall African stepped out who I later discovered at the ensuing cocktail party was Idi Amin who at that time, I believe, was being wooed by the British Government.
Getting onto the Forth Road Bridge from South Queensferry was easier than I thought, thanks to James McKee who kindly gave me directions to the cycle/footpath. The western path was closed so I had to loop down and round a service road to get to the eastern side. The weather was perfect so there was a good view of the Forth (railway) Bridge, now part enshrined in white sheeting while they apply an epoxy resin coating of more durable paint.
At the northern end of the bridge I met a party of school children from Livingston Salvation Army raising money for a water well in Kenya. Good luck kids, and thanks to Margo Stevenson for stopping for a chat and a photo.
The path soon peels off the dual carriageway onto the B961 at Inverkeithing and then alongside the noisy M90 into quieter countryside heading for Cowdenbeath. This was mining country and where my late father did his mining engineering apprenticeship. He would have had to get used to dropping daily into the dark depths with the miner's lamp now sitting by my fireplace. In those days it must have been particularly dangerous work. As I rode through Cowdenbeath, I wondered where he had his lodgings and which pub he might have frequented. It was from this early experience, and his studies at what is now Heriott Watt University in Edinburgh, that he set out to India to make a career for himself, initially as a Coal Superintendent with the East India Railway Company and latterly with the Coal Board of India, prospecting for open cast seams in the jungle of West Bengal.
There's something warmly evocative about these Scottish villages – I don't know what it is. Perhaps there's an unconscious awakening of early memories of accompanying Dad to his work out at Newbattle in Midlothian through similar mining communities.
Onwards to Kinross and Milnathort for lunch with Margaret Mead and husband John. I had estimated a 1.30 arrival and was pretty much on time. On the way, I stopped to talk to a group of ladies outside Kinross Church Centre. Thanks Joanne, Barbara and (Tea Shop) Linda for your interest and agreeing to spread the word of my fundraising efforts for L'Arche.
Marg was outside her cottage to welcome me with balloons and a newly mad Faith and Light
Marg's daughter Elaine is the leader of The Skein where I have just stayed. It was good to learn more about Marg and John's link with L'Arche, John having helped build the chapel in The Cedars, Daybreak, Toronto where Henri Nouwen lived. After a sumptuous lunch, Margaret and I went for a walk around the village, visiting the local pottery and the church and village fete where I met Linda and her husband John Heggarty, retired Church of Scotland minister who met Jean Vanier in Glasgow, and Robert Pickles, the current local minister.
Marg then cycled with me to Glenfarg on what had become a gloriously warm afternoon, stopping for a photo beside a lion topiary before leaving me to head north to Perth. Thankfully the cycle route took me away from the A912 and dropped me into Bridge of Earn, before joining the main road then a steep climb to Craigend which overlooks both the Earn valley and the more northern River Tay on whose banks Perth stands. The SatNav did its stuff and I was soon standing outside the Kinnaird Guest House. Douglas and Emma, and children Harriot and Henry, gave me a warm welcome and relieved me of the bike for safe storage. It's an imposing stone terraced property overlooking South Inch Park. with a real family run feel to it, beautifully decorated and furnished. The flapjacks in the room were much appreciated. Thanks for a really comfortable stay and good luck with the business.
Marina very thoughtfully showed me the route up to St Mary's Spirituality Centre in Kinnoull, where it had been arranged for me to say a few words at the 10.00 Mass. I was glad that I would be travelling without panniers as the hill looked somewhat challenging.

After Bolton Abbey, I met up with a Leeds YHA group, who later joined me at the cafe at Burnsall which looked too inviting to pass. So I pulled in and had a warming cup of tea, handing out a few cards and encouraging sponsorship among the fellow customers. Thanks to whoever gave me the idea of printing business size cards with the web address for donations - opportunities to tell people about L'Arche along the way, and hopefully persuade people to give to the appeal. Then on to Scargill where I recently stood down as chair after nearly 3 years, and where I met my late friend Alan Isles who went to Nepal to start the tree nursery project that I visited in March. Another cup of tea and a chat with a few members of the Community and I was on my way to the tough bit of the ride - up through Coverdale. I realised that it was impossible to cycle up 1 in 4 gradients with a full load - even with 24 gears. So there were a couple of stretches where I had to get off and push. I'm not sure how I would have coped even without baggage. But this allowed me to marvel at the fabulous countryside - how is it I've not discovered this dale before, having always taken the road to Starbotton, Buckden and Cray? When on the bike again, there is still a substantial climb to the top, and just as I was approaching the summit I heard the rare sound of skylark. Oddly, as the mist was starting to roll in, the rain stopped and the northern sky lighten as I started the descent to Leyburn. The gentle descent was interrupted by another killer climb after which I decided to try the Garmin SatNav for which David G had managed to get a significant discount from Halfords.
This is high tech stuff. Type in the postcode and just sit back, watch the map on the screen and listen to the instructions. Garmin voice directed me to turn left after so many miles. The other high tech features are my gear changers. Thanks to wide advice and a generous price reduction from Aire Valley Cycles, I'm now the proud owner of a Ridgeback World Voyage bike, with gear changers that are integral to the brake levels, making gear changing a doddle. A number of other retailers kindly offered a discount, including Cycle Clothing UK which is a new internet company selling really good gear at really good prices - thanks Charlton for sponsoring the shirts, warmers and shades. As I was pondering on these technological advances, I passed a woman who was doing a 10 mile run in the hope of doing the London Marathon next year. Said she would visit the website, so another card dispensed.